Jack At Miramar



Miramar in Montecito is a cruddy little beach with a crap little break between two better breaks: Hammond's Reef, which is phenomenal when firing, and Sharky's, which is even better, but really only fires at size once a decade. Actually, I shouldn't say Miramar is so bad because it was my favorite place to surf. I probably paddled out there more than anywhere, as much for the ease of use and the view as for the waves. But I have had some great times there, surfing my brains out in three foot peelers, laughing and watching the sunset.
This photo stands out to me as Jack is one of the better surfers I know but he looks so mediocre here. I think its really just the essence of Miramar. It really doesn't matter how good you are, you are just going to end up looking like you are having a great time.

2 comments:

Jack said...

yep probably wasting my time trying to gyrate an LB.

Toddy said...

yep, that looks like it.
still looks like you are having a ball.