Miramar, 1994
On Thursday I threw out my back reaching down into the crib to pick up my son. That was a defining moment for me. I officially feel old.
It is the peak of surfing season in New York, my back is in spasms and I need a little bright spot. I need a little glance back to goofier days on big heavy flat planks.
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9 comments:
geez, i love, LOVE that video..
ah shit - sorry to hear that.
REALLy good video Todd. I'll be watching that every day for the next week, I guarantee.
Wow. I have been at this two years stright. I just realized it. Almost time to change up the format again.
I have been pretty jazzed on sufring blogs for a couple months. I geek out on them a little.
If I can get my shit together and make it the habit I want to make it, this will soon document my Eastern Aquatic Explorations of the Winter.
I just gotta fix this back.
Wicked.
Man, I miss that.
that video makes me feel old. We're not young men anymore. But it's okay, isn't it.
Yeah, I think its ok. It will have to be. I look pretty squared off and young and I didn't have too much body hair.
Now I'm old and skinny and when my body hair gets wet, I am at least a couple pounds heavier.
Rough.
I was bodysurfing today and the other bodysurfer out called me "mister." The surfers wouldn't even look at me. I looked at the boogie boarders with disdain. I still feel 14.
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